Cichlids: Feeding for Breeding

Feeding is one of the most hotly debated subjects in the hobby; perhaps even more so among cichlid keepers. The debate doesn't simply cover amount, but also type. Some cichlid keeper swear by a certain brand or key ingredient, while others insist that any added value or perceived difference is imagined by the keeper.

Ultimately, a cichlid breeder's main concern is that he/she brings his/her stock into breeding condition. But how much is needed? What type of food works best? flake? pellet? stick? tablets? freeze dried?  Should live food be used? What about raw, unprocessed vegetables? Lets consider some key questions.

How much?

This subject occasionally comes up among hobbyists, however the vast majority of experienced cichlid keepers would tell you that how little your fish can actually live on would surprise you. What isn't up for debate though, is that too much food will, much like in humans, lead to premature death. Some issues that could potentially occur as a result of overfeeding are fatty tissue in the organs, liver problems, and among lake Malawi cichlids, a disorder call Malawi bloat. Another major downside is more food means more fish waste. More fish waste means more frequent water changes, deeper cleanings, fluctuating water parameters, and even increased filter maintenance. No wonder then that many hobbyists only feed there cichlids once a day, and some only feed them 5-6 times a week. A few keepers I met even feed their stock as little as once a week!

A holding female will go weeks without food,
relying on her fat stores for energy.

However, that being said, more active species of cichlids, such as the African rift lake cichlids, need to be well fed to reach breeding condition. I look at it as a diet for a typical Olympic athlete. Most people would get sick,  if not most certainly fat, with eating 4,000 calories a day. But a rigorously training athlete that trains everyday needs that fuel. Likewise, cichlids such as mbuna move constantly and maintain territory boundaries vigorously. Hence, if you plan on keeping these fish, or similar species, and want to help them reach breeding condition, be prepared to feed them everyday twice a day.

Live/Frozen foods

This is where the hobby is divided. Many hobbyists insist that they achieve better colouration, longer life span, and higher offspring numbers when offering live foods (live or frozen invertebrates, raw or cooked vegetables, etc). Some even go so far as to say they use these foods exclusively, and without the use of prepared or process foods.

The problem with live, or even frozen ,invertebrates is that there is little one can do to ensure that the food is free of disease, viruses, or infection causing parasites. Unless a food is heat pasteurized or process somehow, it is nearly impossible to guarantee that it is free of pathogens. Now, some may say: "But don't fish eat live foods all the time in nature?" Well, sure they do. But I'll bet that Lake Victoria cichlids have never tasted silversides form Alaska, or shrimp farmed in the Philippines. The fact is that, just as we've become adjusted to our drinking water (ever accidentally drink the water in Mexico?) fish need time to build immunity to the various microscopic life that is in its ecosystem. Also, lets not forget that as expertly your fish tank is decorated to look like a specific habitat, it is in no way an accurate replica of nature. Really, your fish tank is closed loop environment, and if you introduce parasites or pathogens, you will need extreme measures to undo the damage.

Cooked or blanched vegetables are somewhat less of a hazard, but can prove to be equally messy and unnecessarily time consuming. In their frenzy, some fish will tear the food to shreds and cause particulates to spread throughout your tank. This will affect your water parameters as it secretly degrades in some crevice somewhere in your aquarium.

It is for these reasons that live or frozen foods should be avoided if at all possible. Now, granted, some species of cichilds are exclusively piscivorous or herbivorous, but these needs can be met by prepared food quite well. That brings us to our next heading.

Prepared Foods

Fish food sure has come a long way from twenty years ago. As the pet industry grows, more and more companies have entered the fish food market. More companies means more competition, which in turn means companies are striving to formulate the best foods in order to win over hobbyists in this buyers market.

For example, fry food usually had to be hatched in a separate brine shrimp incubating contraption in order to give the fry the equivalent of 1cc of omega-3 fatty acid oil per shrimp. Or even worse still was the micro-worm cultures; enough potential disaster to cause a divorce. But now, with liquid and powdered fry foods, you can start your fry on food that will meet their growing needs without breaking up your family.

Fry foods aren't the only food to see innovation. Now, there are foods formulated for piscivores, herbivores, and omnivores, and they come in a variety of sizes and forms. I won't open up the debate about flake VS pellet, but I will say that what you choose depends on your fish's preference, and what size of fish it is.

As far as nutrition goes, many hobbyists feed a variety of prepared foods to their fish. This is in hopes that if one food lacks or is low in a a particular micro nutrient, another will fill those needs. Although I wouldn't say that this approach is completely pointless, it should be said that a very high quality fish food should contain all the nutrients a captive bred fish could possible need.

If you do your research, know what your fish specifically need, and speak with experienced cichlid keepers, you'll quickly be on your way to having fish ready, willing, and able to breed.